Michele and Marlene's visit 17-23 October

A guest post by Michele Munski - Mari Lutz copy-editor.

After 3 days of living large in London, Marlene and Michele arrived by bus from the airport in Čilipi.  There was an embarrassing incident when Michele asked the bus driver if he stopped at “Pile Gate” (pronounced it “pile”) in Dubrovnik, and he corrected the pronunciation twice, saying "pee-leh". Thankfully, Pile Gate was the first stop, and we skulked away before he could remember our American pronunciation.

When we debussed, we found Mari right away, and found out that Mari and Mike’s apartment was just about 20 steps from the bus stop, and about a football field from The Old Town and the Stradun, or main walkway in Dubrovnik. So after a sumptuous snack of local and Mari foods (great cheeses, olives, grapes, pumpkin spice bread) we sashayed off to see the sights.

Walking along the Stradun, we saw bouncing spring toys everywhere, and Croatian soccer team shirts and hats.  Restaurants, large and small are tucked into every corner, and some even spilled out onto the Stradun.  There are churches everywhere, mostly Catholic as Croatia is a Catholic country. There were nuns in full habits and priests in collars walking the streets. We also saw Orthodox (Greek, Bosnian, Eastern Rite) Churches and there was a very old synagogue in Dubrovnik. We later learned it is the second longest operating synagogue in Europe.

The ice cream vendors tried to lure us in as it was about 75 degrees and sunny. The ice cream was sculpted into mountains resembling Mt. Srd (pronounced <surge>)which overlooks Dubrovnik.

Old Town is really the strip of land between Mt. Srd and the Adriatic Sea. It’s surrounded by an ancient stone wall, built 2-3 stories high, and about 4-6 feet thick. Some of the towers on the outside corners of the wall are even higher. Once inside the walls, it’s pretty much wall-to-wall stone walkways and buildings with red tile roofs.

Most amazing was the ever-present Adriatic Sea, a dark turquoise blue, with black undertones. Mari led us to the Buza which is an outlet through the wall to the sea. We walked on stone steps and rocks to reach the charming outdoor bar, high above the Adriatic. It was full, as it was now near sunset. We quickly departed to a second Buza for an even more stunning view of the sunset.

We were lucky to find an empty table on the rocky ledge, so we enjoyed liquid refreshments and settled in to watch other guests jumping off the rocks into the Adriatic Sea. Marlene was busy getting shots of our first sunset in Dubrovnik. When Michele went to pay the tab, the bartender said we owed 122 kunas, and she made her second Croatian faux pas, by remarking “122 kunas!” The barkeeper replied, “Madame, you pay for the view.” Later I discovered that it was about 21 American dollars, really not that bad for 2 wines and a Sprite.

On the way home, we stopped at the Konzum, the local grocery store, about 10 steps from Mari and Mike’s apartment. Marlene took some photos. Michele picked up a cute guy while waiting outside the Konzum. His name was Mike, and it was difficult to tell if he was a student or a professor. We had our first Croatian pizza that night. Yum-so fresh!

By now, you may be seeing a pattern here – everything is just a few steps from Mari and Mike’s apartment – location, location, location!

Day 2 we walked 5 minutes from the apartment to meet our guide and driver, Goga, and left Dubrovnik for Mostar, a city in Bosnia-Herzegovina. On the way we saw peninsulas, a river and a river delta where mussels and tangerines are cultivated. We were surprised to see pomegranates growing wild.

Goga drove us through a border crossing where we crossed from Croatia to Bosnia, and back to Croatia – the result of negotiations which stipulated that Bosnia have access to the coastline. Later, we crossed out of Croatia and into Bosnia-Herzegovina again to continue our journey to Mostar, a larger city with Islamic influences. It boasts a high arched bridge built over the Neretva River in the 16^th century, which was destroyed during the Bosnian War. Fortunately, the bridge was rebuilt.

The streets of the Old Town in Mostar are polished worn rock, lined with shops selling needlework, scarves, copper and metal bracelets and cups. Sometimes, the artists sat out in front of the shops, creating their art. We entered a museum which showed a video of the approximately 60 shells hitting the Mostar bridge until it finally fell in 1993.

We also were able to enter a mosque that was open to the public, going up to the second floor where women were able to worship. At 1 PM we heard the call to prayer from the minarets high above the city.

One of the things we learned was that there are few public restrooms. It costs 1-2 Euros to use the facilities. Our guide was willing to foot the bill, saying. “It’s included,” a phrase we heard throughout our days with Goga.

After a quick trip to the Konzum, Mari rustled up some chicken and potatoes for supper.

Day 3 was a Sunday, so we slept in really late. Mari walked the 10 steps to the Konzum and brought us delicious strudel for breakfast. Baked goods in Croatia are scrumptious.

Since it was a beautiful warm day, Mike and Michele walked up the switchback path up to Mt Srd, about 1500 hard-earned feet above sea level. Marlene and Mari rode the cable car and met us there. We lunched with a view of the Dinaric Mountain Range on one side and Dubrovnik and the Adriatic Sea on the other. Afterwards, we visited the mountaintop museum commemorating the Serbia-Montenegro war against Croatia in 1991. 92 people were killed in the attacks on Dubrovnik.  There is a monument on view near Pile Gate outside Old Town, commemorating the bravery and victims of the 1991 war. It is visible from Mari and Mike’s apartment.

All four of us rode the cable car down the mountain, which takes only 3 minutes to descend. Mike had work to do so the rest of the group took a bus ride to Copacabana Beach, our first dip into the Adriatic! We swam with the fishies. No one wanted supper so we had Croatian ice cream for supper with Mah Jongg for dessert!

Day 4 found all of us up early to meet Goga once again, this time traveling in the opposite direction to Kotor and Budva, Montenegro. Goga explained to us that former Yugoslavia was divided into 5 new countries, Croatia, Bosnia-Herzegovina, Serbia, Slovenia and Montenegro. The ride to Montenegro was mostly rural with many small towns.

We noticed the wild boar signs and watched hopefully. On arrival at the Bay of Kotor Goga arranged for Sasha to boat us out to an island church, Our Lady of the Rocks. It’s said to be constructed on some miraculous rocks which protected sailors during a storm. The construction of the homes lining the bay was Venetian in style as the Venetians were here for about 300 years. Kotor has a smaller, and not as pretty version of Dubrovnik’s Old Town. We saw another walled city in Budva. These people were serious about protecting themselves. Based on recent wars in this area, they had good reason.

We were surprised to see a cruise ship anchored in the Bay of Kotor. It didn’t look deep enough to accommodate such a large ship. Tourism is crucial to this area’s economy.

We stopped to look at an exclusive island resort, Sveti Stefan (St Stephen’s) just to look. Goga told us that tennis champ Novak Djokovik was married there July 9^th.  Cost per night can be as high as 7,000 Euros!

To shorten our drive back to Dubrovnik, we planned to take a ferry across the Bay of Kotor. In a stroke of bad luck, our car was the one they stopped, as the ferry was full! Luckily, the wait for the next ferry wasn’t too long. Goga channeled her inner New Yorker, and made sure there was room for us.

The tired travelers returned to 9 Tiha, where we had a delicious meal of čevapčići, a Croatian sausage, and spaghetti with that wonderful bread served everywhere in Croatia.

Day 5 we slept in again. Goga is young enough to be one of our daughters, and she tires us out!

Mari, Marlene and Michele decided that there were possibly a few stairs in Dubrovnik we hadn’t yet climbed, so we decided to walk on top of the Old Town Walls in Dubrovnik. There are stairs everywhere in Croatia!

We spent a leisurely 3 hours walking the entire perimeter of Old Town, (Marlene says we did 1400 steps that day!) climbing to the tops of each fort in each corner of the wall. At the end of the walk, we agreed that we had seen Dubrovnik from every angle. Marlene had about 4,000 photos of Dubrovnik, Bosnia-Herzegovina and Montenegro. But we pressed on and climbed the final fort, Fortress Lovrijenac (Fort Lawrence) after a light lunch.  Then we hiked over to the beautifully renovated building that is RIT Croatia. It is impressive.

That night, we attended a concert performed by the Dubrovnik Symphony Orchestra in the atrium of The Rector’s Palace. We heard a movement by a Croatian composer, L. Sorkočević , and pieces by Mozart and Schubert. The ceiling is open, and Marlene spied a pigeon perched above a door, listening intently. What goes better after a concert than Croatian ice cream? We had to have some!

Day 6 was cooler and rainy. When the going gets tough, the tough go shopping. We shopped like it was our job.

We also were treated to a tour of the Dubrovnik Synagogue which has been an active synagogue since the 16^th century. The temple is upstairs, and it was beautifully kept. Changes have been made over time. The first level housed a museum that held memorabilia from the years the synagogue has prospered. We saw primary documents directing Jews to cease business, and wear arm bands, as well as an actual arm band.  The saddest display was a list of Dubrovnik Jews who were Holocaust victims.

The weather deteriorated, so we sought out a nearby restaurant, The Dubravka, which has its business office next door to Mari and Mike’s apartment. We were seated outdoors, but – no worries, as there was a red blanket on the back of each seat. In addition, there were portable heaters available. We wasted no time in having one moved over to our table, and enjoyed a delicious meal of seafood and risotto. There was a delicious walnut chocolate cake available for dessert. It was the perfect way to end our stay.

Petar was our dutiful driver who picked us up @ 5:30AM for our adventure return trip. (Goga told us that she is not a taxi driver!) We weren’t sure our plane would arrive at the Dubrovnik Airport or fly us to Frankfurt, Germany because it was quite windy. We did fly out, and it was a little scary. We were served delicious bread sandwiches spread with a local treat, cream cheese and chives for our breakfast. Once in the air in Frankfurt, we were served 2 more meals, Thai chicken and later, warmed gouda sandwiches on pretzel rolls. Marlene and Michele lost track of how many meals they ate during the 20 ½ hour trip home. We arrived in Rochester about 8PM EDT, tired but happy to be home safely. Our leg muscles have never been this toned from walking up so many steps!

Mostar

Mostar street

Old bridge in Mostar

a street view in Mostar.

mosque with minaret in Mostar

View of the protective wall at Kotor

mosque we were allowed to visit

Mari  and Goga in serious conversation

Mari and Goga in Mostar

Group in Native Croation costumes walking down the street

croa

beautiful display of produce at roadside stand in Bosnia
Tangerine season

Goga treated us to fresh tangerines and pomegranites

Crossing the Croatian/Bosnia border

Marlene captures the color from Buza 2

sunset from Buza 2

Modern bridge to Split and points west

The Jadrolinija ships took people out of Dubrovnik during the shelling of the city
People in Dubrovnik were not protected during the war.
The UNESCO designation of their city was not honored.

In the kitchen/dining room.
Mike's Croatian soccer shirt showing his allegiance
The male of the species dresses to attract the female.

Shell damage on the left of the doorway to our home 

This musician was always inside the Pile gate
and was usually accompanied by his drummer companion

view from cable car as it starts ascent up Mt. Srd.

Mike and Michele climbed the switchbacks
They are out there somewhere 

View from top of the cable car platform with umbrellas
of the Panorama Restaurant on the lower level

Marlene and a view of Lokrum on her left elbow

The ladies at the restaurant

Marlene enjoying the view and toasting with Croatian beer

War museum atop Mt. Srd

these alpine flowers do well on the stone walls of the fort

Descending
View of Lokrum and  the old harbor

Bougainvillea are common all over this area. This was at the bottom of the cable car ride.

The four Ms at the wall in Budva

Inside the Orthodox church in Kotor

Inside the Orthodox church with the priest

Flag of Montenegro

Crossing Bay of  Kotor by ferry

Michele and Marlene out of the car stretching legs on the ferry

If only we had we seen one! 

The best ice cream shop in the old city

St. Stephen's island in Bosnia. $$$$

Mari's Postscript

Let me add that Mike and I were thrilled to have visitors from home willing to share this grand adventure. Thanks Michele and Marlene for deciding to come to this little corner of the Adriatic. Also, thanks to Michele for writing this blog entry and to Marlene for her great pictures. This small sampling is just a taste of her album. They are not in chronological order since my skills are very limited. Also, some are not captioned to allow you to use your imagination. Maybe Marlene, Michele and I can download more pictures when we get together again.