We ventured to Venice. Thanks to a suggestion from Ivana at Elite Travel, we flew to Zagreb and from there we were solo passengers for four hours in a comfortable minivan to Venice. (The original plan if we had booked it would have been a longer, more expensive and less scenic 3-hop airplane trip to Zagreb, Frankfort and Venice.)
Mario, our driver, picked us up at the Zagreb airport and drove us directly to our hotel. He showed us our first sight of the Julian Alps in the distance as we passed through Ljubliana the capitol of Slovenia. We had a teaser of a short view of the Adriatic coast as we entered Italy. The farmers were plowing fields and planting winter wheat just as they do in the US in the fall. The country village towns were different from the US in that old stone houses were all clustered together and built on a hill for protection. The village cluster of homes was surrounded with vast farmland on all sides. Besides corn, wheat fields and many grape vineyards as expected we were also surprised to see vast fields of deciduous tree farms.
Once at the hotel in Mestre, we learned we could check our bags but the room would not be ready for 2 hours. As we were preparing to buy a 3-day transit pass (40 euros per person included unlimited land bus and ferry bus rides). We were "unhappy" to learn there was a transit strike. You could take your chances. There were a few buses running sporadically. We were told the 24 hour strike would be over at 4:30 pm so we checked our bags and went to find something to eat.
We took off for Venice, a 15 minute bus trip over the 1-2 mile bridge, enjoyed the trip, maneuvered (elbowed) our way onto the ferry and traveled the Grand Canal. Our first walk on the Fundament was in the area around the Rialto Bridge. We watched the sunset as we dined al fresco along the canal. I found myself humming "O Sole Mio" continuously and was completely in the moment.
Back at the bus station, we waited... and waited for our bus. Apparently the 24-hour strike was not over. After waiting an hour and all hope was lost, we gave up and got in the taxi line (200 people) to wait for an overpriced ride back to our hotel. I think the bus drivers all become taxi drivers when there is a public transit strike.
Things picked up the next day. Breakfast at the hotel was delicious and included in the plan. Our weather was beautiful the entire Venice stay. Buses and ferries remained active.
Let's talk about canal travel. The canal ferry stations are partially enclosed floating piers. You wait with 1-2 hundred other standing passengers and you all know when the ferry hits, arrives because the pier rocks up and down. But because you are tightly packed supporting each other, you need not worry about losing your balance or falling. I think the ferries were army tanks in the last war. What they lacked in charm, they made up for in ramming ability. Bus and ferry etiquette is a quickly learned and humbling survival skill.
Mike dishonored his Fisher College Gentleman training; at one point he told me to elbow the people on either side of me. (Of course he was behind me). I looked at the 2 grey haired ladies sweetly standing next to me. When I pointed this out to Mike he said it would make my job easier.
Day 2, Saturday, was sightseeing around Saint Mark's and wandering around the streets. We visited the 4 story Arsenale with riveting paintings, mastheads and ship parts, models of sea faring vessels throughout the millenia, salvaged items and antiques of Venice's sailing history. There were wall murals of maps created solely from the knowledge of ship voyages around the known seas. Land and especially island countries were disproportunately large.
Venetian food and drinks were similar to Dubrovnik with good wine and delicious fish. Less risotto and more pasta was the main difference. Ice cream is very popular and displayed beautifully here also. Restaurants, stores and sites were very busy accommodating tourists. The gondolas were doing well also.
On Sunday, Mike was able to get us entrance to St. Mark's and the Doges Palace by reserving on line. October 26 was also the 29th running of the Venice marathon. Mike and I are experienced cheerleaders and as this was our 4th marathon (viewing), we enjoyed rooting on the runners as they did their victory lap inside St. Mark's Plaza. Team in Training was not represented. Megan and Graham might want to look into this.
The walk through St. Mark's Basilica and the visit to the Doge's Palace were of overwhelming structural and artistic grandeur. No inch was left undecorated. No cost was spared. Words and pictures can not begin to capture it. I hope you all have a chance to visit there. We spent the remainder of the day walking the narrow streets and canals, visiting more churches, shopping, and eating.
Monday AM we took the ferry over to the island of Murano which of course is famous for glass manufacturing. We were able to observe some glass masters turn out molten sculpture and blown pieces. I must say Mike was incredible using GPS and finding our way around the narrow streets.
We arrived back at our hotel with ample time to rest and to meet up with Mario, our driver. The trip back to Zagreb and our flight home to Dubrovnik gave us time to think about all we had done.
Mike was back in the teaching routine today, Tuesday. It's good to have an unplanned weekend coming up.
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